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Monday, October 10, 2011

Tolovana Hot Springs Report

Over the weekend, a group of friends, dogs, and I hiked out to Tolovana Hot Springs. We had a wonderful time, with temperatures just cold enough to freeze the otherwise-muddy spots of the trail to make them passable, and also to make soaking in the hot springs very appealing! The cabin was very nice and comfortable, and since we all live in dry cabins at home, camping cabins are literally just like home, only with our best friends as roommates! :)

The hike is kind of a haul. From the trail head, you drop immediately into a valley, then climb a dome, then drop down the other side. On the bottom of the far side of the dome are the hot springs, cabins, and a natural cold spring for fresh drinking water. Even though it was over 10 miles each way, we packed heavy, wanting luxurious food for our stay. I was very proud of myself for lugging two cans of beans, and homemade salsa, but then arrived to discover that I was WAY outdone by C, who had lugged about 10 pounds of root vegetables and a full box of wine! P had brought two glass bottles of wine as well!

And... we're off!


The low spots were where it was muddy.

It was already mostly frozen, and I could see how earlier in summer, conditions could have been much worse!

We could see Minto Flats as we climbed higher:


That was some incredibly open country, and we could see miles in every direction:


There had evidently been several recent burns:


Arrival at the cabin:


This cabin was *very* easy to heat and maintain its temperature with its potbelly wood stove. As I've mentioned in the past, I sleep warm and overheat easily, and the first night, I woke up miserable. When I stepped outside to pee, the cold air was refreshing (it was about mid 20s F). I thought, huh. My bag is rated to 20F. Huh. So I went back inside, hauled my bag and sleeping pad out, and spent the remainder of the night on the porch. Much better! The girls cuddled with me on either side and were happier, too!

However, the second night, a strong wind came through the valley and whipped turbulent, cold air about all night, so sleeping on the porch (with no tent) was out of the question. I wheedled my friends into letting the fire go out early so Autumn and Linden and I wouldn't die of heat stroke. As it turns out, toward morning, it did get a little chilly, and I ended up relighting the fire myself! None of them complained of cold, so at least no guilt there!

Whew! Were we pooped!






The next morning after breakfast, I headed out with C and P to see if we could find some grouse for supper:

We had no luck, but a beautiful walk.

While we waited futilely for grouse, we cuddled:


Luke and me:

Luke is quite cuddly, although I prefer fuzzy dogs!

There were so many beautiful, huge, ripe cranberries, and they are indeed sweeter after the first frost, as it is said:

J, who is a compulsive berry picker, picked more than enough for cranberry sauce with our pancakes and oatmeal both mornings for breakfast!

The many overripe berries stained all of the dogs' paws, and made them look like they had walked through a slaughter site:


A series of recent burns made for some weird-looking country:


When we got back from our failed hunt, I made a water run. The spring setup was very rustic. It consisted of a bucket with a hole in the bottom, set below the water line. So you carry your water jug there, scoop water from the bucket using a little tin nailed to a stick, and pour it through a funnel into your jug.

How very Alaskan!

During our search for grouse, this sign had intrigued me, so I went back after lunch with just my girlie dogs to check it out:


From the creek, it's 3 miles back to the hot spring and cabins!


The creek itself was disappointingly not-pretty. It was stagnant and growing algae on top:


The boy dowgs watch S. make a water run:


Symmetric cuddling!


My friend P's dogs are the ugliest I've ever seen! And they drool!

But they are sweet, laser eye notwithstanding.

All five dowgs begging!

Begging from the vegetarian, at that! Geeze!

At some point since our hike in, the pass had grown frost!


Yikes! It was chilly!




The frost looked like artificial Christmas tree flocking:


Finally back! The valley floor had been warm, and we were all sweating when we arrived back at the cars.


No trip up the Elliott Highway is complete without a stop at the Hilltop Truck Stop for pie:


I had lemon cream. Mmmmm!

I brake for pie!

As usual, I was clumsy and paid for my weekend of fun with a pound of flesh:

Slipped on a frozen puddle. Hooked my foot under a root and went flying across the trail. Fell over a tree stump. Et cetera.

Oh well. Bumps are bruises are a small price to pay for a joyful life!

Oh, sorry I didn't take any photos at the hot springs themselves! I had to be circumspect, because we were nekkid.

9 comments:

b said...

Your dogs could have carried the beans and salsa in their doggie packs. I still feel like you are not being very engineer (practical) like in not using them for hauling!

Rena said...

I'd guess the doggies were hauling their own kibble and water, though?
Very nice report, and am especially intrigued by that spring well. Why isn't it frozen solid? Is it close to the hot springs so it gets the heat? Is it the same water as the hot springs? In which case I'd expect it to be very sulfurous-tasting. Good for pancakes, but not tasty for drinking!

Your description of the hauled food is funny. Good thing there was plenty of wine!

Also if the nearby creek was stagnant and covered with algae, why aren't the hot springs slimy? More circulation? How hot was the water?

Arvay said...

Oh, the creek is not part of the hot spring system. It's just a creek in the vicinity. The hot spring forms a creek itself, on the hillside, and it's tapped to fill the soaking pools. The cold spring is also a separate spring that bubbles straight from the ground, so--no giardia!

As for why it doesn't freeze in winter, I have no idea. It probably does. Maybe winter campers have to melt snow for water. The hot spring water is not sulfurous, but it's slightly saline, so it's not great to drink.

I have to say, the hot springs didn't feel 'healing' or therapeutic in any way. It just felt like a nice, hot bath. That's why I only went in each night and used the daytime for walks instead. How many baths does a person need, anyway?

mdr said...

Good pictures with great writings.

Do you think some publisher might want to make it a book with your Fairbanks diary?

b said...

That pie is all fluff and no substance! You need something more substantial in there like pumpkin (which I see on the other guy's plate!)

Arvay said...

Hahaha. I disagree with your exact comment because I can never resist lemon flavor, no matter the vehicle.

But I agree 100% with your sentiment because mo calories = mo betta for backpackers. :)

That pumpkin-looking pie is actually Butterfinger, btw. :)

I bought a dozen pears on sale last week. As soon as they ripen, which should be any month now, I'm going to make a pear cranberry pie. Mmmmmm!!!

b said...

how about mo peanut butter = more nutrisher?

b said...

I meant:
Mo peanut battah = Mo nutrisher

Arvay said...

Yay!